Fish Fry-YAY! #1

I’m on a quest to find the best fish fries in Westmoreland County. I decided to go straight to a reliable source: a group text with high school friends who have been loyal County residents.

After inquiring about where to begin my quest, S. chimed back immediately, “Norvelt! The fire hall has the best fish fry around!”

I arrived on Ash Wednesday about twenty minutes after they opened and the parking lot was already packed! Visitors should not be worried about logistics, though, as the Norvelt VFD’s fish operations are a well-oiled machine. After meandering around an intense, multi-lane line, I placed my order for a fish sandwich and haluski (which I definitely mispronounced). I also noticed a sculpture of Eleanor Roosevelt on a wall above the staging area for the fish fry.

The fish sandwich could not have been a better introduction to fish fry season in Western PA. It was fresh and perfectly battered. Well-cooked throughout, the fish was flaky in the middle and crispy on the ends. It was enhanced by the super soft, fresh bun. While I devoured it, I reflected on how appreciative that I returned to PA that had such outstanding regional foods like this one. I was also glad that I had strategically eaten lightly to this point of the day as the portion size was so large!

S.’s recommendation of heading to Norvelt could not have been a more perfect answer as I had been waiting to take a “field trip” to Norvelt. I just finished reading the excellent history “Hope in Hard Times” by local St. Vincent College professor Timothy Kelly, Margaret Power, and local Seton Hill professor Michael Cary.* The book explains Norvelt’s founding by the federal government as a response to poverty intensified by the Great Depression. A socialist experiment, the community was designed to provide its residents with housing superior to that which the families experienced in mining communities. Homes were constructed with amenities like electricity and running water. Large lots provided families opportunities to engage in agricultural pursuits and to ensure consistent food for both their families and the community. The book was excellent in describing the roots of the project, which was spearheaded by Eleanor Roosevelt (from whom the town is named with the last syllables of her name, “-nor” and “-velt”). While the execution of her vision was imperfect, the town was successful in providing not only stability, but the potential for the future economic growth of its residents as it evolved into home ownership. I especially appreciated the last chapter of the book, which examines the change in culture and politics in Westmoreland County since the founding of Norvelt and raises the provocative question: Who deserves economic support from the government?

After I finished my meal from the car (oh, pandemic!), I drove around Norvelt and really loved the community that I saw. Many of the original homes are still standing and are in excellent condition. Constructed to be anchored around the community center where the fish fry took place, it was apparent that Norvelt’s founding value of community is going strong even as it approaches the 90th anniversary of its founding.

Norvelt Volunteer Fire Department Fish Fry

2325 Mount Pleasant Road, Mt. Pleasant PA 15666

https://www.facebook.com/Norvelt-Volunteer-Fire-Department-Club-Roosevelt-Hall-187103461330962/

* Excellent independent bookstores in Westmoreland County from which to purchase this book are:

Second Chapter Books, Ligonier

Completely Booked, Murrysville

Fresh Italian Food + Art

There is something so special about dining while surrounded by art. It is made even better when the food is excellent. My experience at Ricolita’s Cafe was so great that I came back the next day for breakfast. Ok, I’ll be honest… I had breakfast during what could be loosely called “brunch hours” because these cold, Western PA winter mornings can make it hard for this former west coaster to get out of the house. This was not an issue, though, because Ricolita’s breakfast menu is served all the time!

Ricolita’s is an Italian American restaurant located within the Latrobe Art Center. The husband and wife team who own the restaurant, Rita and Harry Witte, are incredibly kind and welcoming. What sets Ricolita’s food apart from other Italian American restaurants in the area is that Rita is a native of Italy.

For lunch, I ordered the caprese panini at the recommendation of Harry. It was an excellent recommendation. It was not thin and smashed down like many other paninis that I’ve had, where the ingredients are made indistinguishable. Instead, it was lightly grilled and allowed the subtle flavors of the soft ciabatta to be enhanced by the soft mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, and verdant lettuce. Ricolita’s clearly prioritizes fresh, high-quality ingredients, which results in food that can stand on its own without the need for overcooking.

The next day, I returned for the Italian breakfast sandwich (also at Harry’s recommendation). I love a good breakfast sandwich. I think Ricolita’s Italian breakfast sandwich must be the best breakfast sandwich I’ve had in Western PA. Instead of bacon or sausage, I found flavorful, salty pancetta in its place. The traditional cheddar cheese and english muffin was replaced with fresh mozzarella and ciabatta and then topped with fresh lettuce and tomato. Fun fact: the tomato, mozzarella, and lettuce are in the same order as the Italian flag!

Both days, I sat outside and dined al fresco by being surrounded by art in the window displays. It felt like an incredible indulgence during this time of a pandemic in the middle of the winter. Even with the snow coming down, for a moment, I felt as though I had been transported to Europe, where my days were often filled with art museums, fresh food, and people watching on busy sidewalks. I’m thankful to Ricolita’s and the Latrobe Art Center for giving me that experience. (Smaller art galleries and museums take note – this is a smart way to get foot traffic!) Once this pandemic passes, I can’t wait to take art classes and anchor my visits with meals at Ricolita’s. In the meantime, I will enjoy some good meals outdoors surrounded by art when my senses need fed.

Ricolita’s Cafe at the Latrobe Art Center

819 Ligonier Street, Latrobe

This Could Be My Favorite Italian Restaurant

I think I may have found my favorite Italian restaurant in Westmoreland County. On New Year’s Eve, my cousin K. and I started a new tradition: celebrating with dinner “together” from Olives & Peppers. Though socially distant, we still dined together talking by phone after I dropped off a meal at her doorstep. I picked up our order from the new downtown Greensburg location, which opened in December. The other location is in Trafford.

So let’s begin with something that truly blew me away: their wedding soup. K. and I both agree that this is the best wedding soup we’ve ever had. I never thought I could love a broth as much as I did in this soup. The chicken was the focus in the soup base. Salt was used to enhance the flavor without overtaking the other flavors (which, sadly, seems to be a common practice in other kitchens). It had the just right proportions of ingredients, including fresh spinach, fluffy eggs, and tender meatballs. One day I hope to master meatballs like these: soft and yet stick together without falling apart. (Reader-cooks, I welcome your suggestions!) The soup was the comfort food that I needed on a cold, wintry Western Pennsylvania night. Pro tip: you can order a quart to take home with your order.

Oh, and the bread. I had the impression that it was just a regular slab of bread you get with takeout. Was I ever wrong. It was Pittsburgh Italian Bread. As anyone who has ever lived outside of Western PA knows, you just can’t find Pittsburgh Italian Bread: the thin layer of crunchy crust, the fluffy, soft texture inside, and the slightest hint of saltiness. It’s a regional bread, not unlike San Francisco sourdough or Appalachian salt-rising bread. In my family, “Pittsburgh Italian Bread” is something separate and distinct from your average grocery store bread or artisan sourdough: it recalls memories of special trips to local bakeries or Mancini’s. Bringing it home meant that it would need to be eaten quickly before it went stale, and it made the best french toast. I can attest to finishing my bread from Olives & Peppers well before it went stale. It was just the right complement for the wedding soup and gave me that “I’m just so glad to be Home in Western PA” moment. (Oh, and K., I am so sorry that I did not share the bread! I had no idea I was keeping you from this deliciousness. Next time, I’ll order extra.)

K. warned me that the entree portions would be large, and this assessment was right on. My gnocchi was a three-meal dish for me, filling potato dumplings in a tomato sauce with fresh basil that had just the right level of acidity. The meatball I ordered on the side was every bit as excellent as the smaller versions found in the wedding soup. K. ordered the Chicken Romano, another multi-meal dish with three pieces and came with risotto as a side. K. shared that the risotto was the perfect texture and that one of the flavor highlights was the fresh parmesan. We each also enjoyed a dessert of tiramisu where each layer kept its own distinctive flavor and was not overly sweet or heavy.

As we laughed about how nice it was to “dine together,” it really was just that: an enjoyable “night out at home” which we spent together apart. Olives & Peppers is at the top of the list of restaurants I look forward to enjoying in person when COVID passes. I also am excited to continue to patronize a woman-owned business. When life gets busier again, I can’t wait to sit in the beautiful old train station and drink a glass of red wine while surrounded by good food and conversation.

Olives & Peppers 

101 Ehalt Street, Greensburg

833 Harrison City Road, Trafford

Hello, Gyro

I love gas station food. Not the fast food chains with their mediocre predictability, but the locally made delicacies that give you a sense of place. I suppose this began after college when I lived in Mississippi and was introduced to the late night wonder that was “chicken on a stick” from the local Chevron. In areas of car-centric America, gas stations can be the venue for a kind of grab-and-go street food not unlike the hot dog carts of New York City or the taco trucks of San Francisco.

Whether you drive down “Old 22” or “New 22” through Murrysville, you are bound to see the signs for Leena’s, which claims to make “the best gyro in the world.” I have to tell you, this is the best gyro I’ve ever had.

The meat was incredibly tender, lacking the usual bits of tough meat one finds in a gyro. It was flavorful and shaved just as I made my order. The pita was made fresh that morning. I prefer to order a gyro or shawarma with minimal sides, but because I was enjoying my conversation with the owner so much, I forgot to stop him from piling on toppings. I’m so glad he did. The flavors of the toppings were fresh and complimentary to the meat, and it seemed like every bite was the perfect bite. 

I also had the falafel, which was fresh from the fryer (the only way to eat falafel, in my opinion). It was crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. Perfect. I recommend getting the pepper sauce which is made on site with the owner’s homegrown peppers. The next time I visit, it will be a challenge to determine what to order – the falafel or the gyro. The hummus is smooth and fresh and even better with the fresh pita. Don’t leave without ordering the baklava.

“Best gyro in the world?” Definitely possible.

Leena’s Food

Inside the Marathon Gas Station

4180 William Penn Highway

Murrysville

Lunch Made By a French Chef

Who knew that one could find authentic and approachable French cuisine from an accomplished chef in a Latrobe strip mall?

I was supposed to be backpacking through Europe this fall, but COVID-19 had other plans. Having accepted my fate that I would not be exploring European cuisine, I was delighted to find The French Express. I now have a European-inspired ritual for sunny days where I order takeout and then picnic in the nearby Twin Lakes Park or Winnie Palmer Nature Reserve. Surrounded by natural beauty, I slow down from my American pace of eating and savor every bite, people watch, take photos of nature, and end my lunch with a leisurely stroll.

Chef Fichet, the owner, is clearly accomplished in French cooking techniques and also understands how to make his food welcoming to the Western Pennsylvania palate. The menu changes daily, so my favorite order is the lunch combo and I try something new each visit. The lunch combo is a choice of soup with baguette along with a sandwich, quiche, or salad. My favorite soups so far have been the tomato soups, which have been well-balanced in flavors and have a rich texture. As for the sandwiches, they can only be described as polyphonic: each fresh ingredient can stand on its own and they all harmonize well together. My favorite sandwiches are the prosciutto with roasted tomatoes and thyme and also the turkey and brie panini with roasted tomatoes and pear. (I especially love how the roasted tomatoes burst on my tongue.) I adore the arugula salad, an example of how the French Express’s values fresh and high-quality ingredients.

One can not make a mistake in ordering any of The French Express’s bakery items, which are popular among patrons. (When I went with F., we ordered nearly half the menu, which was just fine with me!) While I love their traditional croissants and baguettes, I recommend ordering the fruit tarts and clafoutis. Before you place your order, I also recommend perusing their well-curated assortment of prepared foods and packaged foods, which come from both local and European vendors. These include Scamps Toffee, Enrico Biscotti, and French mustards. Until I can visit France once again, I will be visiting The French Express when I need to slow down and enjoy a well-crafted yet comfortable meal.

The French Express

1020 Latrobe 30 Plaza, Latrobe, PA 15650

Pierogies & Brussels Sprouts Skillet

Craving comfort food after a long hike in the Laurel Highlands, I ordered the Pierogi Skillet at Balance Restaurant in downtown Johnstown. Served in a small cast-iron skillet, the first thing that I noticed were the bright colors of the brussels sprouts, a mound of greenery that sat atop the pierogies and kielbasa. My waitress warned me that their “Lemon Parm Brussels,” which can be ordered on their own as an appetizer, were award-winning, and I could quickly see why. The sprouts were perfectly roasted, retaining their shape and texture. The flavors remained intact, enhanced by the acid of the lemon and the light sprinkling of parmesan. After the layer of the sprouts came kielbasa, pierogies, and caramelized onions. The kielbasa was pleasantly seasoned and was cut into strips that could be easily speared with a fork for a perfect bite. The kielbasa was cooked to perfection and the flavors were amplified by the caramelized onions. The pierogies were pockets of soft potatoes that maintained their shape in the pan with their well-constructed pastry. Needless to say, this dish will bring me back to Johnstown, which is its own hidden gem in Western PA with an independent bookstore, record shop, and a museum and national memorial on the Johnstown Flood.

Balance Restaurant
415 Main Street, Johnstown, PA 15901

Buckwheat Pancakes & Syrup

Who knew that the ingredients for a delicious breakfast could be found in a hardware store? Having just moved in to my new place, I visited Hepler’s Hardware to run a few errands. After ringing up my order, I noticed the display of locally-made flours, mixes, honey, and maple syrup, so I got back into line with my arms full of new things to try. The cashier shared that the buckwheat flour is milled in the back of the store! You can’t get any more local than that! She also shared that when the maple syrup arrived a few days before, it was still warm.

If you haven’t cooked with buckwheat before, it can be a little dry compared to baking flour, so I recommend using a lot of butter in the pan and adding more between batches to ensure that the mix has enough moisture. (Thanks to S.O. for this tip!) My first bite was not what I was expecting: the flavors were earthy and a little bit sour. After a few bites, I adjusted to the more complex flavors and realized that I really liked them. My pancakes paired well with the Jimberg Maple Syrup, also purchased at Hepler’s, which had smooth, sweet maple flavors. The syrup will definitely be a staple in my fridge. This mix is special in that only water and egg needs to be added, so it is great to have in the pantry when you are craving pancakes but don’t have all of the traditional ingredients. If you haven’t tried buckwheat before, get ready for a totally different flavor profile that can put a new spin on your morning comfort food game.

Buckwheat Pancake Mix

Hepler’s Hardware Store 818 US-119, New Stanton, PA 15672

Jimberg Maple Syrup

Oak Lodge, 693 Donegal Lake Road, Stahlstown, PA 15687